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Rambling thoughts after 6 months away from Rio

GuestPoster376

This might be a bit of a long post, so, I鈥檒l try to organize it as best as I can. Been away from Brasil for 6 months, and just came back Friday from a 6 week trip there getting prepped for the final move in August. Thought it might be interesting to document the things I noticed while I was away鈥︹.


INFLATION


Well, it鈥檚 not like it was 20 years ago, but, it鈥檚 still not bad either. I have 4 supermarkets and a weekly street fair within 3 blocks of my apartment in Copacabana, so, I just hit each one of them and grab what ever I need where it is the cheapest. You gotta do a bit of footwork, but, it鈥檚 not out of control. Monthly groceries for two in Rio are about $250 CAD, versus $800 back in Canada.


1f617.svg1f617.svg1f617.svg鈥︹︹︹.waiting for the first Brasilian national to come here and post 鈥渂ut you earn in dollars Gringo鈥濃︹︹.heh


For example, Copa is the south zone tourist area鈥︹.yet within a block鈥檚 walk you can find prices of a 300-330 ml caneca of cold chopp ranging from between R$6 to R$15 so, you have to look around鈥︹︹.great PF鈥檚 are still <R$20鈥︹︹.the new trend is 鈥渃omida sem balanca鈥濃︹︹.a buffet self service restaurant without a scale, and a fixed price鈥︹..for example, a plate piled high and your choice of one meat is R$15-17 and two pieces is $19鈥︹..


I spent a week in Cabo Frio and it was cheaper there, and I also spent 2 weeks in Petropolis/Itaipava where it was even less expensive (Itaipava excepted, of course).


Clothing is hit and miss. Many places are overpriced now, yet some are very cheap. You gotta walk, a lot.


Gas and vehicles are getting up there approaching Canadian levels, but, depending where you live, you don鈥檛 need a car. I don鈥檛 know why we still have one parked in our garage. UBER is still dirt cheap.


STYLE


Pineapple heads are everywhere. The latest trend in hair fashion from the 鈥渃ommunidades鈥 since Ronaldo Fenomeno did his triangle back in the 2002 World Cup is the 鈥淐abeca Abacaxi鈥 hair dye and cut. Not for me, but kudos to those who can pull it off I guess.


Plastic surgery stores in shopping malls are the new thing too. A 鈥淭urbo Bum Bum鈥 (yes, that is what the advertising in the window called it) can be had for R$2,500鈥..a liqui preco from R$6,000鈥︹︹︹︹︹..plastic popazudas and botox lips are everywhere, looks horrible IMHO as it is mainly on the 60+ crowd in Barra de Tijuca. Kinda like old men in skinny jeans, right ?


Victor Hugo is out of business鈥..the Brasilian LV copycat has finally died and Lojas Americanas is on life suport. H Stern is still around, god only knows why. Taco is a ripoff now鈥︹︹et, the malls are full.


I still buy most of my stuff from camelos on the street.


BUSINESS ECONOMY


Last trip in June Rio Sul Mall in Botafogo had 24 empty storefronts. This trip it had only 7鈥︹︹.maybe the pension fund or whoever owns it finally came out of the ether and lowered the rents, or, things are improving a lot.


One thing I love is the almost TOTAL LACK OF G7/EU franchised chain stores. Lots of one off and smaller businesses exist.


It鈥檚 Tuesday night at 730 PM and the restaurants and bars are bumping blocks off the beach where tourists don鈥檛 go. A full house in 75% of them, with lines being the norm. Hhhmmmmmmmm.


The apparent effects of covid on the economy didn鈥檛 seem to change the visual on the streets as most of the previously vacant stores are still empty, but everyone else is busy.


We priced out everything we need to equip our next apartment and it came to about 1/5 of what it costs up here in Canada. Still cheap by Brasilian standards too.


REAL ESTATE


There is a massive bubble bursting in Rio de Janeiro right now IMHO. Over speculation on rental properties in newer areas (especially using consorcios) and the larger expensive inheritances needing total renovation are clogging up established areas, which will bring about a correction.


It is still cheap though.


The trick is to buy from a corretor as they seem to have the lowest listing prices, versus private vendors.聽 Was listening to a 60+ woman bitching to her friend about being unable to sell her apartment in Copacabana while eating at a comida a kilo. She was frustrated by the perceived lowball offers, and people pointing out all the cheap competition to her.


We decided not to buy a beach front place after living in Cabo Frio for a week,聽 as we鈥檒l only go there occasionally, and it鈥檚 better to stay in a pousada. Gonna sell our place in Itaipava (too many 暗网禁区5000 types live there KKKKKKKKK and it鈥檚 simply hard to park between a bunch of blindado Range Rovers on the street) keep the flat in Copacabana, and buy another apartment in the downtown historic center of Petropolis instead. It鈥檚 half the price of Copacabana/Barra or less.


CRIME AND SAFETY


There is nothing to see here. No issues for me personally. Didn't go to the breach in Copa for reveillon because I didn't聽 want to stand in line for an hour to clear security.

See also

Living in Rio de Janeiro: the 暗网禁区 guideApproval of citizenship and real-world experience..MJSP/PFLiving cost / Moving Cost in BrazilI found a new money transfer serviceR茅veillon in Rio
easygoer1050

Nice informative post..thanks

chefjim

Oi Gasparzinho,


Thanks for a great post!聽 But, I'd have added another item to laud about Brasil....its people!聽


Maybe it's me....grey-hair, over 80....but I remember one of my earliest flights from GRU to POA.聽 My flight was a little late, and I had to make a quick connection to Gol....only to find several hundred folks in line before me!聽 Almost immediately a clerk from the front counter left his post and came up to me to tell me to follow him to the "Prioridade" line, thus by-passing the waiting crowd!聽 Wow!


During my first trip on the Metro in SP, I entered a crowded car, and stood holding a near-by bar.聽 A few seconds later, I felt a hand on my shoulder, and found a young man offering me his seat!聽 Again...WOW!聽


Over the next few years, I found that this happening to me over and over....in both large cities as well as the smaller towns.聽 The kindness of people I have found in Brasil is something that has no price!聽

KenAquarius

@chefjim All in all the Brazilian people are wonderful. There are some things that are difficult to understand, but聽 that鈥檚 true anywhere you go聽

Pablo888

@gasparzinho777, welcome back to Rio.聽 In your absence, I was able to get my e-visa and have finalized my Carnival week hotel, Sambadrome, Cristo Redeemer and a few private parties.


Any recommendations on what to do for a Carnival first-timer from the Carioca expert?

sprealestatebroker

If Rio is your cup of tea, the news about the VLT ( City Wide Trams ), is encouraging., I would kick around Rio Historic Downtown.聽 聽


Remember, trash now, gold latter.聽


The area is close to the old trading port, is is a hidden gem.聽 聽

GuestPoster376


聽 聽 @gasparzinho777, welcome back to Rio.聽 In your absence, I was able to get my e-visa and have finalized my Carnival week hotel, Sambadrome, Cristo Redeemer and a few private parties.Any recommendations on what to do for a Carnival first-timer from the Carioca expert?聽 聽 聽 聽 -@Pablo888


Good news on the visa !!!


What hotel are you staying at ?


I don't have any reco's from first hand experience at Carnival as I avoid it for all the usual reasons, so, I asked my Carioca wife who went once........


Go and participate in some "blocos"..........


Go to the "sambodromo" and get tickets for a "camarote" (a private catered box) instead of "arquibencada" seating (the bleachers). Go on the last day of the parade event, which is Sunday, as that is when you see the best schools (Mangueira, Portela, Tijuca, Salguiero for example) and stay all night until 500 AM. You will be be exhausted afterwards from the noise level and your body will ache everywhere because the vibrations of the drums in the "batteria" will soon take over and make you start dancing for hours. You cannot control yourself if the school has a good musical score.


Stay away from partying at the beach/tourist areas as that is were everything is pricier........


As to Rio in general,聽 I'd pass on "Christo Redentor".........and go up the two cable cars to the top of "Pao de Acucar" in Urca at sunset instead. You will be blown away by the visual of the sun going down behind the morros of Rio.

GuestPoster376


聽 聽 If Rio is your cup of tea, the news about the VLT ( City Wide Trams ), is encouraging., I would kick around Rio Historic Downtown.聽 聽
Remember, trash now, gold latter.聽

The area is close to the old trading port, is is a hidden gem.聽 聽
聽 聽

聽 聽 -@sprealestatebroker


That's down by the docs around the Museum of Tomorrow, etc ?

Pablo888

@Gasparzinho 777, I will be staying at the Miramar in Copa - your neck of the woods.... Any good coffee shops / bakeries / landmarks that you would recommend that I drop by?


Re: Sambadrome - yes - on Sunday and I currently have bleacher seats and I am looking for camarote seats. When I booked the tickets the prices were not yet available.聽 They should be now.


Re: Pao de Acucar at sunset - yes great idea.


I definitely will try the block parties - but I suspect that after I have seen one, I will have seen all of them.聽 Hope to go to see the big monuments - Art Museum, Escadaria Selar贸n, Arcos da Lapa - which will probably put me in Lapa too...


Thank you for the pointers....聽 Much appreciated.

GuestPoster376

Hey Pablo......


Confeitaria Columbo

Rua Gon莽alves Dias, 32

Centro



A 125 year old two story architectural masterpiece, located downtown, with an ambience second to none. Coffee, sweets and lunches. A must see in Rio.........we go often for lunch if we plan to be downtown.


The Bakers

Rua Santa Clara, 86

Copacabana


A local family run business with sit down service for coffee and all kinds of sweets. I've been going there for 20 years. Excellent baked goods all made in house !!!


Cafeina

Rua Barata Ribeiro, 507

Copacabana


A locally owned place with about 4-5 locations in Copa. Excellent for coffee or sweets, and lunches. Been going there 20 years as well. Very relaxed atmosphere, and great snacks.


Crums Confeitaria

Rua Leopoldo Miguez, 110

Copacabana


A newish place we discovered last month. Awesome brunch for 2 people with everything you can imagine @ R$120........$35 CAD. Great sweets. Very relaxed vibe.


The fort at Posto 6 is an interesting place to go and do a tour. There is also a really cool outdoor cafe on the sea wall terrace against the north side of the fort, with a spectacular view of Copacabana. A must for picture taking and lunch.

GuestPoster376

One more......not a coffee shop, but a botequim.


Botequim Belmonte

Rua Domingos Ferreira, 242


It's been there for decades, and so have I.......heh. The classical Carioca open bar/restaurant a block from the beach on a street corner full of other interesting places to eat. After 7-8 PM there will always be a line, and the place is bumping. If you go for lunch, usually seating is immediate.

Pablo888

@Gasparzinho 777. Thank you.